Paloma Elsesser’s skirt and overshirt references inform the paired clothing guide. This small copper accent and brick lip are our separate colour choices, not a record of her makeup. The portrait shows a fictional plus-size woman with medium warm brown skin, dark waves and her own facial proportions. Her features offer one example; weight does not determine how much blush, liner or lip definition you should wear.
Build the makeup in six steps
- Set a comfortable base. Apply familiar preparation and optional coverage where wanted. Blend the edges so the base meets surrounding skin without a hard boundary. Leave freckles visible if you enjoy them and allow the skin layers to settle before adding powder products.
- Place the copper accent. Use a small brush to press copper eye colour onto the centre of the external lid. Start with a compact area. The aim is a glimpse of warmth, so you can keep the rest of the lid close to your natural colour.
- Soften the boundary. Use a clean brush to soften only the edge of the copper. Look straight ahead with eyes relaxed to see how much remains visible. Adjust for your own fold or lid space rather than blending up to an arbitrary crease height.
- Add the brown line. Press a small brown eye line along the external upper lashes. Work in short sections and stop before it overtakes the copper. A softly smudged shadow line is an alternative if a precise pencil edge feels less comfortable to apply.
- Keep cheek colour intentional. Add a little warm rose or peach-brown blush where you like it, blending the perimeter. Check beside the brick lip before increasing it. A restrained amount is a balance choice here, not a rule for full cheeks.
- Build the muted brick lip. Trace the natural lip edge in short sections with the lip colour or compatible liner, then fill in lightly. Check for gaps at the corners. A satin finish keeps the colour readable; a sheer application is useful if you prefer less maintenance.
Adapt it to your features and plans
If copper looks pale on your skin, choose a deeper metallic brown-copper rather than repeatedly layering an opaque light shade. If reflection emphasises texture in a way you dislike, use satin or matte warm brown instead. You may also enjoy the texture and leave it visible; neither choice needs an age-based rule.
For everyday wear, keep only the brick lip and brown line. For dinner, build a little more copper close to the lashes and deepen the lip edge. Brown, terracotta and muted rust lip colours you already own can play the brick role without needing an exact shade match.
| What you notice | Try this |
|---|---|
| Copper spreads too far | Remove the excess at the boundary with a clean tool before rebuilding a smaller area. |
| Brick looks unexpectedly orange | Try a browner or rosier shade, checking it beside your skin and outfit in daylight. |
| Cheek colour competes with the lip | Soften or reduce the cheek layer before adding extra lip depth. |
Questions you might have
Is contour part of this look?
It is optional and unnecessary to the colour formula. A full face does not need narrowing before wearing a defined lip.
Can I skip the metallic colour?
Yes. A small matte warm-brown wash keeps the same gentle warmth. The brick lip can remain the focal detail.
Use eye products as directed
Follow product directions, use clean applicators and stop if irritation occurs. External-lid placement is our choice.
THE COMPLETE LOOK
Wear it together.
Keep the outfit and its makeup interpretation in one collection, with a combined checklist.
Makeup placement and colour are personal choices; adjust the steps to suit you. Follow the directions on your own products.
